Xin chào quý khách*…. unless this is the first time you’re reading my blog or you’ve had your head buried in the sand during the last few weeks I think you’ll probably be aware that I’ve recently been to Vietnam with my family on a trip that practically took on pilgrimage proportions as JF and I returned to the country where we met more than 20 years ago. With so much anticipation and so many emotions churning through our veins, the fear was it might not live up to our expectations or the country might have changed so much that we’d feel disappointed, disoriented or deceived, but I’m delighted to report that it was a total success on all levels. I have thousands of photos to sort through and equally as many words to process before I can really do justice to such an incredible journey but I wanted to get something down on paper sooner rather than later and had to start somewhere, so what better than the place that stole all our hearts. Hoi An, the best of Vietnam.
Hoi An, a small city right in the centre of Vietnam, left me almost speechless! It’s a place I didn’t really know having only visited briefly once in 1993 but I’d heard so much about. And the reason I’m almost lost for words? Its exquisite beauty. And laid back ambience. Vietnam is such a frenetic place with so much energy at times it’s exhausting, that the calm of Hoi An came as a very welcome surprise. That’s not to say the town is sleepy, far from it, it has all the buzz of other Vietnamese cities with street sellers, markets, galleries and tailors (plenty of them) but the centre is pedestrianised which changes everything! Only having to contend with bicycles and the occasional law-breaking motorbike while moseying around made sightseeing, shopping and general exploring a real pleasure. Add to this thousands and thousands of lanterns strung across the streets and on every beautiful traditional building and the result is something unique and very special.
Hoi An is a cultural melting pot of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese and French influences and the architecture reflects this unique history. UNESCO designated it a World Heritage site in 1999 which has resulted in strict laws regulating the height of buildings, colour of the facades etc. While almost all buildings that aren’t pagodas house art galleries, shops and restaurants, the name signs are all low-key hand painted and sympathetically designed while the products being sold are for the most part attractive local souvenirs and lanterns. In the old town you won’t see garish neon hoardings advertising “Made in Vietnam” knock-offs/seconds but instead every building is painted in mustard yellow and retains its traditional features. At night when the lanterns are lit it takes on an ethereal beauty the likes of which I’ve never seen anywhere else in the world.
I’ll write about what we actually did in Hoi An in another post but for now I’ll leave you with a selection of photos that I hope give you a feel for this gorgeous, authentic, ancient riverside port.
There are lovely shady streets with scented flowering trees, palm trees, bougainvillea and other flowering creepers (and elegant tourists) everywhere.
The town is dotted with Chinese Assembly Halls from different regions in China.
You can see the French influence in these elegant buildings.
The night market stretches out away from the protected central zone, so you can see taller buildings here. There are plenty of delicious street food stalls in the market.
The choice of lanterns for sale is enormous….and if you look carefully you might even spot a marrying couple having wedding photos taken!
Inside the Chinese assembly halls and pagodas there are dragons and other mythical beasts and incense offerings for good fortune, even from foreign visitors.
The food scene in Hoi An is incredible, with everything from simple street stalls and ambulant sellers, to backpacker cafés, local joints, trendy coffee shops that wouldn’t look out of place in Melbourne or London and classy restaurants with European prices.
The Thu Bon river is alive with tourist boats, traditional fishing boats and rowing boats for romantic sorties to release floating lanterns.
Night time in Hoi An really is magical. My photos don’t do it justice.
The interiors of the old wooden buildings are beautiful too. Below is the 16th century Japanese Covered Bridge (which can be seen in full in the first photo in this post and at night here).
Hoi An is considered to have the best tailoring in Vietnam and the very best food too. Together with all that I’ve shown you and tranquil streets like these below where you can explore until you are happily lost, is it any wonder I think it might just be the best place in Vietnam?
This is as busy as we saw the old centre of Hoi An.
What do you think? Have you been to Hoi An? Would you like to go?
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Oh, welcome to Vietnam! Your photos make our country become more stunning. It seems that you have a long holiday in Hoi An, is that right?
For me, Hoi An is the most beautiful place in Vietnam. Everyone should spend at least three days in it to get to know the different faces of this amazing town.
Yes we were there in late October and there were rainy downpours every day but it didn’t ruin our time. It’s definitely not the best season to visit the centre of Vietnam but it’s IS the best time for the north and that was our main focus. Being a long north south country it’s hard to have good weather all over the country at any one time. I hope you have a great trip!
Hello! Where you in Hoi An in October or November? I have a trip planned for mid-November and I am so afraid now from everything I have read about the floods. This is the first blog I stumbled across that still had a good time during those months… thanks!
What a beautiful city – so alive, lush and colorful. Love the night photos – indeed magical. Cannot believe I’ve never been to Vietnam – some day! #mondayescapes
I really loved Hoi An, for many of the reasons you say — the laid back vibe, a chance to catch your breath after the bigger cities, the shopping and eating and general ambience. We took a great cooking class there and of course had some clothes made (though one child late, they no longer fit) and bought some of those lanterns. Thanks for reminding me of my own wonderful visit there. #wkendtravelinspiration
Hoi an is a beautiful city and should definitely be on every Vietnam visitor’s itinerary. I love your awesome photos! Thanks for joining us at Weekend Travel Inspiration! #wkendtravelinspiration
Stunning photos. I especially like the pictures of the lanterns, specifically the one with the wedding couple beneath it.
Oh wow! I think I’ve just fallen a bit more in love with Vietnam! But not gonna lie, I’d totally go just for the beautiful lanterns! haha #wkendtravelinspiration
Your photos are stunning and capture the essence of Hoi An and your love of this area beautifully. I can imagine the anticipation of returning to Vietnam after 20 years and the expectations you would have of the place. What fun it would also be on your return to go through the thousands of photos, if these wonderful shots are just a sample. So glad you were not disappointed on your return and I look forward to reading more from you of this area… and of course travelling back to this area again myself.
What an amazing place to visit Phoebe, thank you for sharing all your photos, it may be the closest I get to going, but really shows the difference in culture and food from here. #MondayEscapes
So lovely seeing this post. Hoi Ann was my most favourite place when I was in Vietnam. I agree, the floating candles at night are so magical. #CityTripping
Oh wow no wonder you fell in love with Hoi An! I could just wander around for days taking photos;) I particularly love your river side images and the markets. I would love to return to Vietnam, I have only spent a couple of days there during a world cruise but I would love to return to really explore. Thanks for linking up to #MondayEscapes
Fantastic photos Lou and glad you had such a fab trip. I visited Hoi Ann in ’99 during the worst ever floods in the country so my memories are a little different to yours. I have a few soggy pics on my site somewhere, sadly nowhere near as bright and lively as yours! I look forward to reading more of your Vietnam posts, a country I would love to visit again. Wilbur
That’s me, constant snapping!
Thanks Annette 🙂
French is spoken more than in most other countries in Asia, but realistically English has taken over by a long way. Older people sometimes speak it, those over 70-80 years old. Other than that the old architecture is heavily influenced by France, some of the food and the bureaucracy!
No cars particularly in Vietnam is more wonderful than you can imagine Rosie, but also no motorbikes and that’s even better!!
Yes, we fitted in quite a lot to our 16 days….but there’s so much more to go back for again!
It looks such an absolutely stunning place and those lanterns look amazing at night time. You saw so much!! I’ll be looking out for your next post on it 🙂
No cars – that sounds like my kind of a city and Hoi An looks absolutely delightful. I am so glad your trip was everything and more than than you had hoped for!
Oh, I can’t wait to go to Vietnam one day! Just out of curiosity – are there any remains of French colonization there? Would speaking French help at all language wise there?
Your fab pics certainly make me feel like I’m there. I agree returning to a location that holds significant emotional value, after many years, can be tricky. The need for it not to disappoint is very strong. I am very happy for you Vietnam did not disappoint and you particularly enjoyed Hoi An. #AllAboutFrance
Oh wow it looks incredible, I so want to go such gorgeous pictures I would be the same constantly snapping x
I wonder if you’ll go back to your Greek island one day? It’s a very emotional trip to take.
I’m sure you’d love Vietnam Cathy, I hope you get there soon.
I’m glad you enjoyed my photos Ahila.
Thanks Elizabeth! What a pity you had to cancel your trip but now that your husband is better I really hope you can try again as you’ll love it and it’s very kid friendly.
Wow, wow, wow. Incredible photos Phoebe. I’m so glad Vietnam wasn’t a disappointment and Hoi An looks utterly magical. We were all booked to go a couple of years ago but had to cancel after my husband got ill. We were due to spent almost a week in and around Hoi An. This has proved that we must rebook the trip! Thanks for linking #citytripping
I had wanted to visit Hoi An during my trip to Vietnam but had to skip it due to lack of time. So, I enjoyed your photo tour of the lovely old city, especially the photos of the colourful lanterns.
Vietnam is somewhere that’s definitely on my bucket list and everything I read about Hoi An in particular tempts me more. One day… Hopefully one day soon. Thanks for the added temptation and for linking up with #citytripping
I’ve been to Thailand and Malaysia but never made it quite as far as Vietnam. Having seen your photos above we missed out on so much! I’m glad the revisit lived up to your expectations, my partner and I met whilst we were both working in Greece but we’ve never been back to the island since. #Farawayfiles
I’m glad I brought back good memories for you Katy, when did you visit?
I hope you get there Susie, you couldn’t help but be charmed.
Oh I’m jealous of you going next year, I want to go back NOW!
Thanks Erin, I’m so happy it made you feel like that because that’s how I felt!
Hi Courtney, we flew down from Hanoi to Hoi An, very cheaply on VietJet, under 100 USD for 4 of us. (We took the 17 hour train journey back up for the experience NOT the convenience or price! It cost a lot more than flying). I would really try and fit in a trip to Hoi An, it’s a wonderful contrast to Hanoi (which is fabulous too and I’ll be writing about it soon).
The more I read about Hoi An, the more I NEED to go! I’m going to Hanoi in April, and I’m really hoping I can make a stop in Hoi An as well. Your post has further convinced me 🙂
Gasp. Sigh. WOW. That is so gorgeous. The lanterns everywhere and colors and foods and people – I loved it. Want to go tomorrow! Can’t wait to hear more details. A perfect post for #FarawayFiles – thanks for sharing one of your favorite corners of the world! Cheers from Copenhagen, Erin
I know! It has my name written all over it… Knew this would be the perfect post for #FarawayFiles
How fabulous that you visited Hao An after so many years and you still felt the same! We plan to visit next year so I was keen to read more and what a stunning place it looks! I have heard over and over again about the amazing food and I can tell from some of your photos that there is so much history and culture, I can’t wait to see it for myself. Thank you for sharing all this information. #farawayfiles
Lucky you. What a beautiful place. Thanks for sharing your visit. No. 1 on my bucket list. 🙂
Hoi An is a very special place. Your beautiful photos brought back some wonderful memories for me Phoebe. I loved Vietnam, it’s beautiful people, interesting culture and delicious food. I think it all comes together in one neat package in Hoi An. Thanks so much for sharing with us on #FarawayFiles
I know you would too Christine! Hoi An is bursting with cooking classes too which you’d love.
It really is Tanja!
Thanks Stephanie! 🙂
Hanoi is wonderful too, but I have to admit to not loving Saigon.
Clare, GO! You’ll love it!
Don’t miss Hoi An, you can’t help but be charmed by it.
Thanks Bailey!
It’s a fascinating place, that unusual mix of cultures produces something very unique. Happy you liked my photos.
What an interesting mix of cultures! Your gorgeous photos made me want to book a ticket to Vietnam right now. #CityTripping #FarawayFiles
Amazing. It all looks really magical. Thank you for sharing your great photos.
We are planning a trip to south east Asia next year so this is a perfect post! Looks like I cannot miss out Hoi An! It looks so beautiful! Thanks for sharing – loved the photographs too #citytripping
I was already keen to visit Vietnam before I read this – now I’m positively desperate! Thanks for this great tour, Phoebe. Love your photos. #citytripping
I have wanted to visit Vietnam for a long time. Therefore, I enjoy each of your photos. I have heard a lot of good things about Hoi An. That is why I am very interested in visiting Central Vietnam (and not concentrate on the big cities on the north and south). #citytripping
Your Hoi An pics are wonderful! They make me 1) wish I’d bought home souvenir lanterns and 2) REEEAALLLY hungry! 😀
it seems to be such an interesting and lovely place! #citytripping
Beautiful, evocative words and pics. I want to go -I know I would love it!