Anyone who’s been following this blog for a while will know that we enjoy a good old road trip in our family and go on a long one almost every summer. A few years ago, before I started writing and documenting our travels, we took a particularly scenic trip across France driving cross-country from home in the South-East across to Brittany in the far West, passing through the pretty volcanic region of Auvergne and the famous Loire valley on the way, and the gorgeous little island of Ré and magnificent walled city of Carcassonne on the way back. This French road trip, our Tour de France, took two weeks and covered about 2800 km.
Seeing as it was quite a while ago I’m not going to go into great graphic descriptions of everything we did, but rather outline our itinerary and leave the “postcards” to do most of the talking.
Apart from the lovely scenery and historical sights we saw, one of the best things about this particular road trip was that we stayed with friends, or in their holiday homes everywhere except Carcassonne. The positive side of a nomadic life means we have friends all over the place and it was a joy to catch up with old mates in the Auvergne, Loire and Brittany, spending a few days with each family in their special places. Finally the last few days we had the run of another friend’s cottage on the île de Ré, leaving us some time to be just the 4 of us. Kind of a perfect holiday really.
Our first stop was in the tiny village of St Anthème between St Etienne and Clermont-Ferrand in the heart of the Auvergne, five hours’ drive from home. This little-visited area of France is home to Europe’s largest regional park which is rather surprisingly dotted with volcanoes, in fact about 80 of them in total. And while the whole area seems sleepy and peaceful, these volcanoes are classified as dormant, not extinct! Unsurprisingly the main attractions to visit are volcano-related and we chose Lemptégy volcano over the bigger “theme parks” where we took a guided tour of the volcano which had also been a mine, exploring the lava flows and historical mining machinery.
Our next stop, after another 5 hour drive was the pretty town of Durtal on the Loir river. That is not a typo, despite Durtal being in the Pays de la Loire or more commonly known as the Loire Valley, it is actually situated on the Loir river! Its castle is one of the Loire Valley châteaux, but not so well known or grand as many of the others. We did however visit one of the most famous of Loire Valley châteaux in the form of Villandry, renowned for its magnificent gardens.
Back on the road again, this time only for only 3 ½ hours, from Durtal to Fouesnant in Finistère, Brittany. We stayed in a large house with two families and had two more lots of friends nearby so this part of the road trip was all about apéros, picnics, sailing and fun on the beach. Not a hardship especially as we had the best weather we’ve ever had in Brittany. We explored the coast more than we’d ever done before and it was a revelation to discover long empty sandy beaches with dunes, as well as the more typical rocky coves.
After 4 lovely days in Brittany we took to the road again for just over 4 hours to the charming island of Ré, over the bridge from La Rochelle in the Charentes-Maritime département. When we set off from home we only had as far as Brittany planned, having decided to play it by ear after that. And that ear played it well; by chance a friend called for a chat while in Brittany. During the conversation she asked where we were and what plans we had. When I said we weren’t sure where we were heading next she suggested her sister’s place on the île de Ré. We didn’t even know her sister had this place let alone imagine that we could stay, so it was just one of those fortuitous travel moments that I’ll never forget and always be thankful for.
Under huge skies we spent 4 days exploring the beaches, salt-flats, pretty little villages and a UNESCO World Heritage fort mostly by bike as the island is completely flat and has a well-developed system of bike paths. The île de Ré is a popular place for French tourists, particularly Parisians, bringing a certain chic to many of the boutiques and cafés, but it is almost unknown to foreigners. For once, in a holiday place in France in August we didn’t hear any English (or Dutch/German/Swedish/yadayada) being spoken!
A crazy coincidence happened on Ré island, we bumped into an old friend, who we hadn’t seen for 15 years, in the street, quite literally coming head to head around a corner in the wonderfully named Ars-en-Ré! He lives in Hanoi – what’s the likelihood of physically crashing into him in a little village in France?
Finally our time was running out, home beckoned and we left the île de Ré completely charmed and determined to go back again one day for longer. We broke our homeward journey for a night, after a 5 hour drive, in the spectacular medieval walled city of Carcassonne, another UNESCO World Heritage sight. The view from our B&B was a show-stopper, we were unbelievably lucky finding such a wonderful place to stay, for 4 people with only 24 hours’ notice, in August, in Carcassonne. Having breakfast on the terrace overlooking a view of one of France’s most iconic sights on the last morning of our holiday was the most fabulous way to end a pretty-much perfect holiday.
Do you like to go on road trips? With your kids? Please share your experiences in the comments, I’d love to hear from you.
Want to read more about our road trips? You might like these related articles.
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Holiday Snapshots – Road Trip 2015
Balkan Road Trip – driving the Lovcen Road
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We love road trips! In fact, we literally only do road trips to explore places. I have never seen much of France except Paris and Versailles. It’s time we did a road trip to explore this part of France and your map is very helpful. I will add this to our bucket list. 🙂
We go on a road trip, so to speak, across France every summer, when we travel by ferry from Ireland to Cherbourg, before driving all the way to Auvergne, where I am from. We always stop over for the night in the Loire Valley. Last year it was in Villandry, and we got to explore those wonderful gardens. This year I might try Durstal, if it’s not too far off our route 😉
#AllAboutFrance
I had no idea there were volcanos in France!
My parents took us on road trips like this all over the United States. I have been to almost all 50 states because of it.
I always enjoy your posts!
This is an area of France I haven’t been to but I sure do want to go! Your photos are fabulous. I love the green countryside. And Carcassonne is now on my bucket list! Thanks for sharing!
France never fails to inspire, I hope you get to Villandry soon Katy!
I’m glad you liked my “postcards”! I’ve also been in France for 20 years and despite exploring hugely feel there are plenty of places I don’t know at all.
Ré is so very different from my neck of the woods, almost diametric opposite. I don’t know what we’re doing this summer yet, but it’s sure to include some driving, haha!
Plenty of scope for cycling Jacqui!
I’m so happy I cheered up your dreary winter’s day. You’re right about the charm of the different regions. I’d be hard pressed to choose a favourite area.
The problem with Carcassonne is the crowds, but yes, I think you’d like it Sally!
My pleasure Carolyne
What a disappointment to walk instead of ski….my boys would never have let us live that down (even though we aren’t in control of the weather!)
I don’t feel 5 hours is a lot of driving, I guess maybe that’s the Australian in me. You can fly to Carcassonne Janet, never say never!
My memory can be fairly hopeless when it comes to remembering where I put my keys but for travel it’s pretty good, especially aided by lots of photos!
I love trains too, but for family travel I reckon you can’t beat the freedom of your own wheels. I’ve taken my boys on a few overnight train trips but nothing longer than 17 hours…maybe it’s time to do a really big train trip with them!
Yes, it really was….
The beaches in Brittany are lovely, especially in unexpected sunshine!
Yes it sure is – wonderful and diverse!
You never know, you may get lucky, after all Brittany weather is usually more like Scotland than this sunny weather we had!
We do enjoy our kilometres of tarmac!!! This was a relatively short trip compared to many others we’ve done.
There’ll always be more parts of France to visit! Such a great country.
Villandry gardens are stupendous aren’t they? Yes it was totally bizarre to bump into our friend. One of those crazy small world situations.
I know you enjoy driving in France, and if you go to La Rochelle you HAVE to go to île de Ré, it’s just across a bridge.
Driving allows ultimate freedom, but trains are very relaxing. I’m a big fan of train travel too.
What a mammoth road trip, Phoebe! Road trips are not something we’ve done but we should probably think about as it’s a great way to see lots of different places on the one holiday. The Ile de Ré has been on my wishlist for years! Time to see it for myself, I think. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles
Hi Phoebe, what a lovely way to spend a couple of weeks and how nice that you get to catch up with friends too. I travelled through France many years many years ago when I was travelling, but it was November time and my form of transport were the trains (very fancy too). I never saw the side that you see driving through.
xx
We do love a road trip and are doing another this summer in France. You’ve armed me with some inspiration Phoebe. La Rochelle is in our sights and possibly Ile de Re so great to hear more about it and some other areas of France too #allaboutfrance
Absolutely gorgeous! I think Villandry is one of the most beautiful gardens I’ve ever been to. I would love to go to Brittany and Ile de Ré (how funny that you randomly ran into your friend there!!) It sounds like an amazing trip.
What a wonderful road trip and includes two of my favourite places: the Loire valley and Carcassone. It also made me think of those parts of France I still need to visit!
What beautiful pictures Phoebe, and I love how you make a virtue out of the necessity of all those kilometres of tarmac…
We’re planning a Scottish road trip this year but somehow I don’t think the weather will be quite as good as your French trip! Love reading about your trip, Carcassonne has been on my list for a long time. #Farawayfiles
What a wonderful trip & how lovely to have bumped into an old friend in such bizarre circumstances too! We have such lovely memories of The Ile De Re – having spent a lot of time there with the boys on family holidays when they were a lot younger, but also Brittany & stunning Carcassonne too. It just shows what a wonderfully diverse Country France is! #AllAboutFrance
The beaches in Brittany please! Haven’t spent any time there – looks so lovely. And you KNOW I love a good road trip! Even with teens in tow! 😉 Cheers from Copenhagen! #FarawayFiles #AllAboutFrance
NSW to Darwin is L.O.N.G how fabulous! I’ve been to Darwin by bus from Sydney and have also driven from Darwin to Kunnunurra and back in a car but have never driven as far as you! When I lived in Sydney we’d often drive to Byron Bay and once I drove a beaten up VW combi from Sydney to Port Douglas and back but that’s still not as far as Darwin. I’m super impressed. Frankfurt to Brittany is also long. You’re obviously a great road tripper! Thanks for your kind comments about my photos, I was just playing with the idea of good old-fashioned postcards.
Sounds wonderful! Especially getting to catch up with so many friends. And as for the beaches
The île de Ré is adorable, you’d love it Nell. You couldn’t not.
Well the east is near you and has plenty to offer, but it’s time you came south Lolo!
Isn’t it just? I bet you’d find something funny to write about it too Margo!
We’ve been to Britanny in August and been on the beach in fleeces, that’s what made this time so unique, it wasn’t like that, it was gorgeous weather! (Must have been a one-off!)
Last summer we did Spain and Portugal too, I really need to write about it.
France is so diverse, you can discover new things forever here, even after 20 years I love finding new places to explore. This itinerary did take us off the beaten track a bit, and kept us on the well worn path too!
Yes that’s a good enough reason to avoid long car journeys I reckon! I hope you get to visit Carcassonne in May.
It would be hard not to be happy there Katy, it’s a very beautiful and serene place.
Oh just take me to île de Ré – I think I could be very happy there! #farawayfiles
We generally avoid road trips with the kids because they all get car sick :(. Have wanted to see Carcassonne for some time and hopefully will get a chance in May! #AllAboutFrance
Wow! What an epic trip! I would like to do something like this because I feel like it is the perfect way to see the real side of France. Not sure if there is something like that because of the diversity of the country but at least you can appreciate the many faces of the country.
We love road trips! I love the freedom of having our own source of transportation and the ability to change our minds, or not. This past summer we road tripped through Ireland and the UK for three weeks, and the year before we drove through Portugal and Spain. #allaboutfrance
Around the same time as you would have been doing this trip, we, too, were holidaying in Brittany. I remember the looks that my friends gave me when I told them that we were going to Brittany in summer but didn’t quite understand them until we arrived and were inundated with rain. It made no difference to me. I still loved every minute of our holiday there.
Sounds like a great trip. I definitely have to visit Ars-en-Ré – that name is just too funny! 🙂
Looks like a lovely road trip I would totally enjoy! I realllllly want to start exploring more of France, but we keep going to the east! #FarawayFiles
We did a road trip last Summer. Nowhere near as far as yours though! You passed through some of my favourite parts of the country. I love Carcasonne, the Loire Valley and the area of Brittany you were in was very close to our base last summer. I’ve never been to the Ile de Re but after reading this I’m putting it top of my list for a French visit! #AllAboutFrance
Diane it was before I started blogging, over 5 years ago, I didn’t know you! Next time of course I’ll get in touch.
We are more a train travel family – sit back and let the train take the strain! We did a few road trips through France when i was young (about 40 years ago lol!!!) and I still remember the beauty of the French countryside. I love France and would love to spend more time there (I think housesitting will be a major factor in our lives come retirement!) Your trip looks lovely – I haven’t been to Carcassonne and so would love to spend time there! #farawayfiles
LOL! I think my memory is way too awful to be able to write a post from a few years ago! What a lovely trip, I am bookmarking the itinerary for future reference. Thanks for sharing!
I partly envy you for all the things you saw, and partly don’t because it’s such a lot of driving in a short space of time! I would love to go to Carcassonne, but I can’t image I will ever get there. #AllAboutFrance
What a great trip! I still can’t believe you passed through my neck of the woods and didn’t email me!!!!!!!!! Next time 😉
What a great trip. We once went to the Auvergne for skiing but there was no snow and so enjoyed a walking holiday instead! #AllAboutFrance
Simply gorgeous – I want to trace your #AllAboutFrance route. Thanks for sharing Phoebe.
Trying to work out which place I’d like to go to most! I’ve spent a fair bit of time in the Auvergne and love it. Would love to see the chateaux in the Loire, but from the pictures I think Carcassone is my favourite. A grand tour :).
Your trip brought a splash of sunshine into a dreary winter’s day.
Brittany is probably my favourite region of France when the weather is fine. The scenery, the food, those heavenly beaches. But every region has its own charm, that’s the joy of travelling in France. Something interesting around every bend.
Road trips in France are my perfect holiday and this one looks ideal.
I love road trips, and this one sounds perfect. I’m glad you liked Ré Island – it must be very different from your home, though beautiful in a different way. It’s great for cycling too. I look forward to hearing about this summer’s trip.
What a great trip! And fabulous photos, as always. I love the postcards – an idea I will steal for my own blog!! France has so much to see from glorious countryside to fascinating historic monuments. We’ve lived here for 20 years and have only scratched the surface!
What a fabulous trip. Too many highlights to mention though I must say you’ve put Villandry on my hit list for our road trip next year. How divine! I love the diversity in France – gorgeous beaches, chateaux and pretty little towns. I’m not sure we will make it there this year but I’m going to try very hard! #allaboutfrance
What a lovely way you have put your photos together, they look great. Our family has done a few road trips, Newcastle, NSW to Darwin a couple of times (4-5 weeks each trip) and Frankfurt to Brittany and London to St Andrews Scotland are just a couple I can remember. Always fun! I must try putting my photos together as nicely as yours. #AllAboutFrance