The Christmas meal in France, eaten on the evening of the 24th of December, wouldn’t be complete if it didn’t end with a delicious dessert of bûche de Noël, but what exactly is a bûche de Noël? Literally translated bûche de Noël means Christmas log, and nowadays it comes in the form of a cake shaped more or less like a log. Its origins however come from a real wooden log.
Like many traditions associated with the end of year celebrations, the Christmas log probably comes from Pagan rituals surrounding the Winter Solstice. However, slightly more recently over the last few centuries tradition had it that families would gather on Christmas Eve to light a fire with a large log that burnt for at least three days, preferably more, till New Year or even up until Epiphany on the 6th of January.
Ideally the wood would have been from a fruit tree to guarantee a good harvest the following year. Before lighting it, it was blessed with a branch of box or bay leaves and sprinkled with different substances depending on the region. In wine-making areas, it would have been splashed with wine to guarantee a successful harvest. In some places it was sprinkled with salt to keep away evil spirits. Once blessed, the log would protect the household for the coming year, as long as it burnt for at least the minimum 3 days!
As heating developed in French houses, the large open fire became rarer, being replaced with a cast iron stove and ultimately central heating. This meant burning a huge log became impossible for most households and so the tradition morphed into a cake in the shape of a log, enabling a symbolic continuation of the ritual.
The actual inventor of the cake is unknown, though various possibilities and theories exist including an apprentice baker in Paris in 1834, or the baker to Charles III of Monaco, Pierre Lacam, in 1898 or perhaps a baker with the company Colibri as recently as 1945. However, despite its lack of precise origin, pretty much everybody agrees that it started out as a cake made of genoise sponge, spread with a coffee, chocolate buttercream and rolled into the shape of a log. It was then iced with more buttercream and scratched to create a wood pattern.
Nowadays the bûche de Noël has developed to include ice-cream logs and lighter versions made with fruit, meringues, macarons, etc – the only limit is imagination, for example renowned Michelin starred chef Thierry Marx (famous for molecular cuisine among other practices) has created a bûche this year (2016) without sugar, using only fruit, pectin and chocolate. “Logs” are also no longer necessarily rolled but come in all shapes as long as they are long(ish) and thin(ish). Many patisseries are known for their imaginative take on the bûche and regular clients look forward to finding out what form each year’s log will take.
Personally I’ve never made a bûche at Christmas, I can make a tasty cake but I’m not so gifted in presentation so I’m happy to support local commerce and buy from the pâtisserie for the big day. However, some of my friends are excellent cooks and talented bakers and I’ve illustrated this article with their creations – thanks Sophie (below), Christine (middle, traditional log) and Esther from Third Culture Mama (beautiful snowy photo at the top) along with logs I’ve eaten over the years.
Variations of the bûche de Noël exist in several other countries, are you familiar with it wherever you are? I’d love to hear about your Christmas food traditions.
To read more about food at Christmas in France take a look at:
13 Desserts: Christmas in Provence
How to Make Galette des Rois, Traditional Epiphany Cake
School Christmas Dinner in France
Update post-Christmas 2016: some friends sent me pictures of their creations which I’m happy to include here. In order thanks to Esther (again), Clara from Expat Partner’s Survival Guide, Rachel and Sophie.
Why not PIN this for later!
Very interesting (and I love it when “blog posts” are well researched!!). The Bûche de Noël is also a common feature in Luxembourgish Christmas dinners, in either ice cream or cake forms. But I didn’t know (nor ever think about) its origins. Thanks for enlightening me! #AllAboutFrance
Thank you for adding a picture of my log Phoebe! It was the first one I have ever made so I was actually quite proud of it. I think the whole family were amazed at how well it turned out (says a lot about my baking skills…). And thank you for this post – so interesting to learn the history to what I always thought was just basically a log-shaped chocolate Christmas cake 🙂
Very interesting Phoebe! Great to know the story behind the tradition and beautiful photos of some delicious looking Buche de Norl. We didn’t have one this year but next time we are in Framce for Christmss I’ll make sure I get one although will definitely support the local patisserie too. Thanks for hosting #allaboutfrance
I’m glad to hear it thanks for answering my question Chrissie.
You don’t know Katy and Chrissie then (2 other Aussies who answered Catherine’s question!) Ha Ha!!
You didn’t have a Yule log?
What a shame Richard, how can they call themselves French bakeries and not sell bûche at Christmas time?!
You must take a photo next year and share it with us then! Good to hear you eat them a lot.
Sounds like a great choice Julie!
Not being a big fan of dried fruit I prefer them hugely over a traditional Christmas cake! 🙂
tins of passion fruit imagin that yum. I seem to remember that Cottees did a passion fruit pulp. Thank you for answering my question Annette.
How cool that you’re renaming your log Janet! I like that!!
Ice-cream ones are a big hit in our house!
Indeed!
I agree wholeheartedly GGG. We had a red fruits one, a caramel one and a chocolate one over the fêtes!!!
I love all the diverse varieties that are available these days – the window shopping is tremendous fun while trying to select the most enticing example. Thanks for explaining where this tradition comes from!
Miam! Miam!
Now that looks good, the chocolate ones are especially tempting but the ice cream one sounds good as well.
We love a chocolate log in our house and it’s just not Christmas without one, but I’m going to call it a bûche de Noël from now on and try some different decoration and fillings, like in your photos.
They look so good – so much nicer than your average Aussie Christmas cake!! And it is lovely to know some of the history!!
Catherine I note that Woolworths and Coles seem to have a lot of pre-made pavlova shells, tins of passionfruit etc on display for sale prior to Xmas, but I personally don’t know anyone that eats it at Christmas. It must still be popular though or the major supermarkets wouldn’t stock up on it at this time of the year. Annette
Your guests are certainly well looked after Rosie! Annette
I was amazed by the number of logs for sale in the local patisseries and chocolate shops near us when we were over at Christmas – I had never appreciated that they were such a major tradition in France – we didn’t buy one this year, but next year I can see I’ll be heading to the lovely ‘Scaramouche’ in nearby Cereste to buy one of their ice-cream versions & will probably plump for the ‘Gloire de Mon Pere’ , which not only sounded devine, but is named after my favourite Pagnol film! Happy New Year #AllAboutFrance
The good-old pav is definitely still a Christmas favourite here in Oz. Indulged in one or two slices over the festive season I must admit 🙂 As Katy mentions, summer berries on top are definitely a winner at this time of year.
Oh, I wish I had photos of some of the logs we’ve devoured!! They are indeed a work of art… thank you for the details behind the tradition. #AllAboutFrance
Phoebe, as it did for all the other commenters, this post brought back great memories (and the photos provoked some very specific sensory memories) — we were in Texas for Christmas this year and I looked for a buche at several of the places calling themselves “French bakeries”…but no luck!
X thank you very much Katy. Peppermint crisp crumble oh yum!
Yum! We were in the UK for Christmas this year and the buche was missed…
In general I agree that home-made is best and I’m quite sure all my friends’ logs here are totally delicious but mine wouldn’t be, and my local pâtisserie, with its master chocolatier, is amazing, so for me, it wins hands down!
Nor mine Jacqui which is why I buy mine from patisseries! Can’t wait for the galette tomorrow!
It’s not 12th night yet Nell, you could whip one up this evening!!!
Lovely to hear that you have this tradition in your family Clare.
Galette des rois tomorrow Margo!!!
This tradition does exist in several other countries and all over France, not just Provence Jill but I agree when done well the logs really are show-off items.
Sorry! Pop by a cake shop on the way home!!
I just love the first one, with the fungi growing on and around it. I think home-made are nicer than shop bought.
Those pictures are divine – not what I need to be looking at at 5:00pm as I sit at my desk; I’m starving!
I’m so impressed! Not only is this a traditional dish, it is also a show-off item. Just gorgeous!
This is a tradition that people all over the world could bring into their homes to celebrate a bit of seasonal Provence. Thank you for passing along the secrets!
Yum! I love these. It’s a good thing that I’ve just had lunch, or I would be out trying to find a leftover one…
Great to read this, Phoebe. I love the tradition of the yule log that burns in the fire over the Christmas period. We always pick a huge one to burn in our big fireplace. My mother always made a chocolate bûche de Noël – I really must try it one year. #AllAboutFrance
Yes! We have pavlova but I like to make a festive looking wreath with summer berries on top. We were reminiscing about the classic peppermint crisp crumble on top the other day but I think everyone’s too gourmet for that these days. My mum makes a delicious ice cream version of Christmas pudding too but honestly we also have a traditional Christmas pudding with brandy butter so that is rather a lot of dessert. Ah well it is Christmas. Happy new year Catherine!
Can we have Christmas again, please? I didn’t get a log this year, and now I’m feeling sad! Great post – really interesting to read about the history. #AllAboutFrance
I made one, once – not my skill set unfortunately! There are still one or two at our village boulangerie, so I might just treat myself, but then there is the galette des rois too – decisions!
I hope you do Lolo, they can be very delicious.
Sorry Harriet, I know it’s mean but I published this at a time when it didn’t get much trafic so I wanted to spread it around a bit! It’s still within the 12 days of Christmas after all!!
Or you could just be on a mission to eat as many different styles as I am! Ha ha!! It’s a way away, but do let me know how you get on!!!
I’ve seen these logs everywhere but I didn’t know the meaning behind them! Maybe next year I’ll try my hand at making one. Pinned this for reference 🙂
So interesting to learn about the Cake Log tradition and how it evolved over time! I honestly never knew that! Maybe one day I’ll get the chance to try it! #AllAboutFrance
No, no, no! This is NOT a good post for our after-Christmas diets. How am I supposed to go back to my lettuce leaf after looking at those mouth-watering photos? Seriously, an interesting history into the good old bûche that costs a fortune at the patisserie, but which always looks so perfect. #AllAboutFrance
Sorry your comment got a bit lost in the Christmas rush Catherine, let’s see if we can get any anwsers for you.
In Australia, a long time ago, like 50 years, we used to have a passionfruit pavlova at Christmas time. I wonder what they have now. Can anyone tell me?
No, my lot aren’t keen in it – too much icing. I usually make a stollen and a traditional English Christmas cake. I may do a festive café gourmand again too. Am currently making mince pies for gite guests.
I don’t know, though perhaps because UK also has so many traditional Christmas desserts and sweets: Christmas cake, mince pies and the dreaded Christmas pudding….France (nationally, perhaps there are some regional specialities) really only has bûche. Do you make a bûche at Christmas Rosie?
I wonder why the bûche de Noël took off so much in France where-as it’s equivalent in the UK, the Yule Log, is less commonly eaten?