Market day in Provence is an important day. Throughout France, market days are a big thing. France is justly famous for its markets, they really are still a part of everyday life and always have been. They are not recently invented fashionable “farmers’ markets” selling superfoods in designer eco-packaging but genuine places where ordinary folk get their daily food.
Not everything is locally produced by any means, much comes from the wholesale markets on the edge of big cities, having been shipped in from around the world. You can usually tell these stalls as the fruit or veg is uniformly perfect and polished and the prices may be a bit cheaper than at the local stalls. But mixed in with these generic sellers are plenty of local producers selling their wares direct, offering the best in quality and the lowest carbon footprint.
And that’s what makes markets in France so interesting. Regional variations in cuisine are so great that a market in Normandy will focus on entirely different produce than one in Provence, or one in Alsace. Don’t go to a market in the south expecting a selection of Camemberts, nor hope to find a range of olive oils in Lorraine!
I’ve always loved going to markets wherever I’ve been in the world and find it’s a great way to get under the skin of a place. Whether it’s a genuine farmers’ market selling locally produced food or a tourist-trap night market selling tat, there’s always something interesting going on. I remember going to Christmas markets in Prague in the early 1980s, but these weren’t the Christmas Markets of today, with chalet stalls selling mulled wine, cookies and tasteful decorations. These were functional affairs, markets at Christmas time rather than actual Christmas Markets, where you went to buy your live carp for Christmas Eve dinner, hauled out of an enormous tank of thrashing fish. Urgh how I hated those fish!
I remember street markets in Sofia a decade later in the early 1990s where sellers would hawk a handful of onions on a trestle table, or a pile of radishes, hopefully trying to make a few Lev in times of absurdly rife inflation. Just thinking of Paddington and Glebe markets, favourite hangouts during my student years in Sydney, brings back great memories of bargain hunting for unusual clothing. I could go on and on (oh the markets in Vietnam…) but I digress, I set out to write about my local market, now!
In my area there’s at least one street market in a nearby town every day of the week, and in places like Antibes, Cannes and Nice they are daily fixtures. Roquefort les Pins market is on a Wednesday. It’s small and functional, nothing to blog write home about. My favourite local has to be Valbonne, every Friday morning. Not only does it take place in an absurdly pretty medieval village, typically Provençal, with pollarded plane trees, shuttered windows, narrow cobbled alleys and a colourful central square, but it’s so full of beautiful stuff!
The stalls ramble throughout the village, not just in one place but really, all over. Ambling around you can find everything from shoes, scarves and children’s clothing to hand-painted ceramics, olive-wood bowls, kitchenware, Provençal fabrics, artists’ paintings, lavender cosmetics/soaps and lovely flowers. And this is even before I’ve started on the food. There’s a wonderful selection of olives, tapenades, saucissons, goat’s cheeses, olive oils, honeys and spices and several fruit and veg stands.
You can find fresh pasta, chicken roasting on a spit and the most delicious bread at a tiny stand by a hole-in-the-wall, straight out of the oven. The smell is heavenly. There is surprisingly little junk, with only one stall selling iPhone covers and other such tat made in China. Just out of the main central part of the village, in front of the church, there is a section devoted to very local farmers/smallholders.
Now, Valbonne is not exactly a cheap place, and the market prices can often reflect this, but there’s at least one genuinely good value stall I head for every time. The reason they sell at such a good price is that they only sell whatever fruit really is in season that day. Take a look at what was in season the last time I went: strawberries and asparagus, perfect early summer fare.
Valbonne market can get very crowded and in high season is absolutely packed. My advice is to get there early – it starts around 7 am – and enjoy the best produce without the crowds. Take your time to chat to the sellers, and even if your French is limited, a friendly “bonjour”, “merci” and “au revoir” will always be appreciated and will almost certainly get you better service and possibly better produce too. You can always ask to sample a bit of what you’re interested in, or ask for advice.
Did you know that it’s normal to ask for a certain product, such as a cheese/melon/avocado, to be ripe for a certain day? (For example, you want a fresh goats’ cheese for a dinner you’re having in 3 days’ time, so tell the seller and s/he will pick you out the perfect one for that day). Even if you’re just looking and photographing, still make eye contact and smile – it makes a huge difference! By the time everyone else arrives as the morning wears on you’ll be ready to sit down and watch the world go by over a coffee in the Place des Arcades. You’ll still be right in the thick of it, but at one of the coveted tables on the terrace rather than squabbling and pushing with the masses.
All photos were taken in late March. Come back again in summer for a different selection of fruit, vegetables and herbs. Do you like going to markets? Do you have a favourite one? What do you think of my market day in Provence? I’d love to hear from you.
Related Reading:
Daily Bread – the French Baguette
Lemon Festival on the Côte d’Azur – Menton’s Fête du Citron
Why not PIN this for later!
Are there any other markets in the area of similar caliber? We’ve just arrived and missed the Valbonne market. Thank you!
Hi Terri
I don’t know of any others that ramble through the streets of the whole village like in Valbonne, but the covered Provencal market in Antibes is lovely and cours Saleya in Nice is very charming too, both are open every morning.
Hi Adrienne, I don’t know Arles and Avignon well, I’ve only visited briefly but I’m sure they’ll have good markets. Antibes has a lovely covered Provencal market every morning in the old town, you can’t miss it. In the afternoon/evening all the surrounding resturants spread into the market hall and the atmosphere is fun. Cannes has a good covered market too but my favourite for prettiness is the flower market, Cour Saleya in Nice. It’s so photogenic. For an authentic market where local Nicois go to buy their food then I recommend Liberation market which is on Avenue Malaussena in Nice, which is the extension of the main shopping street Ave Jean Medecin. You won’t find any visitors there. Cour Saleya is full of tourists but it’s worth it as it’s so so pretty. Have fun, you’ll love it!
Going in July to Arles, Avignon, Antibes, Cannes & Nice. Any specific markets you recommend in those cities?
It’s a real goodun Tina!!
Thaks for hosting as always Ashley! Great linkup:)
I love a good market!! Looks great!
I love love markets – look at all those strawberries and white asparagus! Yum! Thanks for linking up to the #SundayTraveler!
I’m glad I brought back good memories Jessica
Love French markets, particularly in Provence! Your post brought back some nice memories of our trip there as we visited a few markets while there.
Thanks Emma, the strawberries were amazing! 🙂
Beautiful photos of wonderful market scenes. Those strawberries looked amazing. #LAB
Your every-now-and-then market sounds fun Emma, good to hear they close off the streets and really get into it.
Thanks Frank! You must have good olives and cheeses in Croatia too, and no doubt saucisson but perhaps not tapenade. You’ve got a lot to do when you come back!!
I’m glad you enjoyed your virtual visit Jen! 🙂
Come on over Laura!!
Yes it’s such an integral part of French life. It’s a great way to see how local people go about their daily routines and what’s important to them.
It’s good to hear you have one a month in your town Mellissa. If you visit France you must try and get to a local market too.
This tip is one of those things that you get from living in a place rather than visiting it I think. I realised it was the norm when vendors started asking me when I wanted my melon for but it took me a while longer to realise even cheeses have seasons and can be chosen for a certain date. They’ll also advise on which cheese to choose to go with a particular meal too which is great. I love using their expertise.
The linens are really lovely I agree Michele. The funny thing is that I always pictured myself living more in Asia that Europe, so we should swap!
Thanks Kerry!
Swoon! Your pictures are delightful. I can just imagine walking down the streets!
In the UK, our weekly market isn’t great, the stall holders are loosing out to the large supermarkets. But, we do have a wonderful market every few months in our town, the close all the streets to traffic and the stalls are set out, a lot of home craft and local producers, it is wonderful.
Putting Valbonne on my bucket list! You made me hungry (it’s lunch time anyway). I absolutely love olives, tapenades, saucissons, and goat’s cheeses. We bought some good artisanal olives in L’Epicerie Fine Premiere Pression in Antibes. They were really good. Your photos are great as always.
This looks like an amazing market and I love your photos. Sadly, there are no fabulous markets like this close to where I live. I obviously need to move to France!
Amazing photographs and descriptions they almost transport me there! Wish I could really viisit as the markets look fantastic!
This market looks so interesting. I love farmers markets, they have one, once a month in my little town. I’ve never been to a market in France. Great photos too
I loved looking round the markets when we’ve been to France.,the whole atmosphere was incredible!
I love the markets in France as well. I recently returned from Europe where I spent nearly two weeks in France and in just about every city we visited, we went to a market. Thanks for the tip about asking the vendor to pick out which product you to need to be ripe by a certain day – I had no idea!
I like your tour of Market Day in Provence. I would really love to purchase some of those darling ceramics or table linens. When I dreamed of expat life, I always pictured myself in Provence (thanks to that book, A Year in Provence). Instead, I have found myself in Malaysia. Like most locals, I shop for groceries at the wet market. I cannot say that they are as picturesque as the ones you show as the one I frequent is in a rather ugly building with bad lighting. The Night Markets here tend to be more for tourists and sell all sorts of mass-produced cheap trinkets that break after 1 use as well as designer knock-offs.
I don’t visit many markets but would really like to. This one looks really good! Fantastic photos! x
I loved the colours of the kids’ clothes too. And the strawberries were amazing!!
Thanks for commenting Michelle
Brilliant description! “Heaven’s kitchen”!!! Thanks for stopping by.
Yes well spotted. “Vin d’orange” is an apéritif (a pre meal drink) a bit like elderflower wine in that people make it themselves but it’s rarely available in shops. This is homemade by the stall holder.
I love markets, we have loads here in Birmingham, I’m often found traipsing around the fish market or fruit and veg stalls. We also have the rag market indoors where many a bargain can be found. I don’t think we can compete with the beauty of French villages though! (well, not in Birmingham anyway!) BTW, do I spot Orange Wine? I don’t think I’ve ever heard of orange wine, it sounds nice though!
Wow. Fantastic photos. The market sounds amazing. Would live to visit.
I have been to the organic market in Uzes and it was an unforgettable experience. Thought I died and went straight to heaven’s kitchen!!!:) Thank you for sharing!
what brilliant photos – just look at those stunning strawberries! The olives look amazing too and those cute brightly coloured kids clothes. You’ve made me want to be there. We occassionally pop by our local farmers market but wouldn’t it be great if there were more markets like this in the uk.
Thanks Lauren.
Definitely one for next time Molly. 🙂
Yes, EAT is BIG here!!! So many yummy morsels to try.
Where have you been looking??? Come and visit the south (and stay at Lou Messugo of course!)
They were delicious (and smelt great too!)
I’m glad you enjoyed it so much Mary 🙂
Thanks Alma, I’ll be back! And thanks for hosting!
It’s all the same market Delia, it’s just big and varied. 😮
If you go to Valbonne market in September give me a shout Lori. Thanks for pinning.
Cultural differences make the world go round, America has many great things that France doesn’t.
Thanks for your kind words Laura! 🙂
You have a point there Ana about the weather, though northern France has very similar weather to UK (at least to the south of England) and it has markets too.
I love going to local farmer’s markets in the summer here – great ways to get organic, fresh, locally grown produce! Way better than at the grocery store! These markets look wonderful – great photos!
I love French markets! Beautiful photos. I’ve never been to Valbonne, though – one for next time!
I luuuuuuurve markets. NO better way to see what a place has to offer and of course what there is to EAT. Big thanks for linking up with us this week for #SundayTraveler again xx
THIS is the France that I would love to see! I really think I’ve been looking in the wrong places. This market looks just wonderful.
Oh I love markets! Those strawberries look delightfully delicious. Thanks for linking up to the #SundayTraveler again!
I want to move where you are! I love visiting markets and you have quite some gems around you. Beautiful photos and such a great walk through. Thanks for those tips too. Wonderful to keep in mind for my next European market tour.
I love this post! Your descriptions are wonderful. I wish I could hop on plane and go.
Thanks for being a part of “Oh the PLACES I’ve been!” Hope you’ll be joining us next week.
– Alma, The Tablescaper
These places look amazing, Phoebe! I love the one with the tulips, so colourful!
We go to the market in Cannes, but never here in Valbonne and that is DEFINITELY where we are going on our next trip in September! Love you pictures so much that I pinned them to my Pinterest boards 🙂
Beautiful pictures! I wish we had more of this in American towns. Something to aspire to. 🙂
Your beautiful pictures and descriptive writing make me want to visit a french farmers market!!
Gorgeous pics and description. It takes me back to my student days when I spent a year in the South of France and also to countless happy holidays spent in that country. I’m sure markets would be more common here in the UK if the weather was better for outdoor shopping.
Most things are a bit more pricey than average Peter, but as I said, there are always some stalls which sell at excellent prices too.
They were tasty too!
I’m happy to bring back good memories Catherine!
Thanks Catherine 🙂
I could spend a fortune here when I visit the place because I just love fresh produce. How are the prices of the products here?
I love the picture of those strawberries. I have never seen them those big.
Oh I’m drinking in all of your photos of the Valbonne market, so pretty! It brings me back to the week I spent there a couple years ago,… as you mentioned, it is one of the prettiest villages and markets and I’d love to return one day 🙂
I love your local markets too phoebe. Great photos as usual.