Van Gogh La Nuit Etoilée – Starry Night – at les Carrières de Lumières in Les Baux de Provence is an extraordinary immersive art exhibition in an old limestone quarry deep in Provence. This breathtaking experience is the product of incredible new technology developed in 2012. Around 500 of Van Gogh’s works of art have been digitalised and are projected onto the walls, ceiling and floor of the immense tomb-like space accompanied by a stirring soundtrack. It’s hard to put into words just how powerful and moving this remarkable immersive exhibition in Provence is.
I had been to the Carrières de Lumières once before about 4 years ago to see an exhibition of Renaissance painters so when JF and I went recently I knew what to expect in terms of immersive experience. However, we entered the Van Gogh exhibition during a particularly dark and turbulent episode in the film and it not only took my breath away but quite literally made me fall over in awe! I sort of stumbled dizzily on the uneven floor. Not an elegant beginning but the genuine result of such a unique location.
You see, you enter the quarry exhibition space at a random stage in the show, not necessarily at the beginning, and not necessarily during a light part. But thankfully the images change rapidly and if you do walk in in the dark it doesn’t take long to get accustomed to the unusual surroundings. It’s a genuine WOW! moment, especially for a first-timer like JF so we took a little time to get our bearings marvelling in the vast volumes and incredible images swirling all around before moving further into the “auditorium”.
The exhibition takes you on a journey through Van Gogh’s life with works of art depicting his native Holland, Paris and Provence where he spent many of his final years. You will also see rolling projections of his writing taken from letters and old photos of Paris. The technology is pretty mind-blowing as, for example, parts of a painting may move while the main image stays static, such as blossom blowing off branches, crows flying overhead or even a hand plucking a musical instrument. Different images can be projected onto separate blocks or across the whole space at once. Do take a look at the videos I’ve uploaded to get an idea of how this works.
The paintings are so big you can see individual brushstrokes and examine the minute detail of different sections. Details that were barely noticeable in the original paintings come to life.
Images merge into one another, colours change and before your eyes is a completely different painting. Water ripples and lights reflect giving you the impression you’re on water, then without noticing the transition you’re in a cornfield or starry night. It’s phenomenal! Really!
The result is that you are completely drawn into the painting and become an actor in the show. Visitors moving around the quarry do not necessarily detract from the experience but are absorbed, though large groups of noisy school kids are slightly harder to ignore! The experience is both collective and individual.
Being a quarry, the exhibition space undulates through different levels with ramps and steps and random large blocks of limestone here and there. It feels organic. There are places you can perch to absorb the experience but as you are free to wander around, you’ll find yourself moving from place to place to take in different viewpoints.
There is no time limit on the ticket, once you’re in you can stay as long as you like and seeing as you’re unlikely to arrive as the show starts, you’re going to want to stay at least until you’ve got back to where you started. This is not as easy to recognise as it sounds because by moving around you are constantly seeing the paintings from different angles and perspectives.
Unless you start with a very specific image playing you may well not be aware you’re on the second round. I say this because it happened to us and it was only when we heard the same music again that we realized we’d gone full circle!
Talking of music, the soundtrack is a rousing eclectic mix ranging from Janis Joplin, Brahms, Vivaldi, and Smetana to Grieg, Puccini, Miles Davis and Nina Simone whose “Don’t let me be misunderstood” plays poignantly as self-portraits of the troubled artist fade in and out.
I haven’t even mentioned yet that as well as Van Gogh the show has a short film of Japanese art “Japon Rêvé, images du monde flottant” – Dreamed Japan, images of a floating world. It depicts Japanese works of art and decoration that fascinated and inspired Van Gogh such as the iconic Wave by Hokusai, delicate fans, colourful Geisha kimonos and the ephemeral beauty of cherry blossom.
It’s a gorgeous interlude; the movement of water, with giant octopuses and fish swimming around works perfectly in the organic space of the quarry. I loved this section just as much as the Van Gogh itself.
As I mentioned before you are unlikely to arrive at the start of either this film or the Van Gogh, but it doesn’t matter if, like for us, you see the Japon Rêvé in the middle of Van Gogh as the two complement each other perfectly.
The quarry, which was used for hundreds of years until 1935, providing limestone to build the neighbouring castle and village of Baux de Provence, is a vast space, 7000 sqm, 7-9 m high on average but soaring to 16 m at the highest point.
In the outside areas I felt like I was walking into an Egyptian tomb, so monumental are the proportions. The massive blocks of stone and wide rough walls make perfect natural screens to project the films on to but when the lights go on at the end of the show, the stark columns and massive cracks across the ceiling contrast strongly with the beauty and fluidity of the images you’ve just seen.
Films have been showing here since 1979 and every year there’s a different subject. In recent years the immersive exhibitions have included Gaugin, Monet, Renoir, Klimt, Picasso, Bosch, Brueghel, Arcimboldo and the Renaissance masters that I saw in 2015 Michael-Angelo, Leonard de Vinci and Raphaël. Next year there’ll be someone else…
Photos and even videos of the show only touch on the surface of how incredible this experience is. Nothing can replace actually being in it, because that’s what happens…you are enveloped in the art, in the music, in the whole experience. It surrounds you, above, below and even across your body.
The acoustics are amazing and the music so powerful you really do get completely absorbed like no other art show I’ve ever seen. The words grandiose and spectacular are thoroughly appropriate, for once not over-used. If you get the chance to go, you must!
While this time I went without children, last time, for the Renaissance Masters, I was accompanying a school trip of fifty 10 year olds and they all loved it! I can vouch that it is a kid-friendly experience and a unique way to interest children in art.
The Van Gogh Nuit Etoilée and Japon Rêvé exhibition lasts until 5 January 2020 and I’ll let you into a secret: almost exactly the same show is on in Paris at the Ateliers des Lumières until the end of 2019. Personally, I love the drama and poetry of the quarry location, but I’m sure if you can only get to Paris not Provence the experience will be pretty damn good too.
Practical Details:
Facilities at the Carrières de Lumière include a nice-looking café (though I didn’t eat at it), a gift shop and toilets. There’s also a small cinema dedicated to Jean Cocteau who filmed parts of his film Le Testament d’Orphée here in 1959 and was influential in creating the artistic space that the quarry has become.
Tickets can (and should) be booked online especially if you want to go during the summer holidays. You reserve a timeslot, but once you’re in you can stay as long as you like, count on spending 1-2 hours. The exhibition is fully accessible. Click here for les Carrières de Lumières website.
Prices range from free for under 7s to 13€. There are discounts for seniors, students and groups.
It is cool inside the quarry, around 14°c, so think about bringing a light jumper/pashmina or at least long sleeves. The contrast with the outside on a hot day feels refreshing at first but can feel cold after an hour of standing around.
Opening hours: April, May, June, Sept, Oct: 9.30 am – 7 pm. July, Aug 9.30 am – 7.30 pm. Nov, Dec, Jan, March 10 am – 6 pm. Last entry 1 hour before closing time. Open every day (closed in February to set up the following exhibition).
Address: Les Carrières de Lumières, Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
JF and I couldn’t help but marvel over what the great artist himself would have made of such incredible technology, projecting his work over such a vast space in this immersive exhibition in Provence. What do you think? Have you been to a show like this? Please share your experiences.
Related Reading:
7 Favourite Museums in Provence-Côte d’Azur
20 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in France to Visit
The Exotic Hanging Gardens of Eze
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This looks amazing! I’d heard of it but not seen any pictures of it so couldn’t imagine what the quarry was like. I also knew about it being on in Paris. Two stories: last Feb (2019) we were in Paris for 4 days and looking for indoor things to do and forgot about Ateliers des Lumieres! I look back on a cold windy walk along Coulee Verte as a wasted day 🙁 Second story: I went to the Montreal version of this and loved it. The phrase that came to me was I felt like I was “bathed in beauty”. My sister on the other hand had been to the one in Paris. She took one look at the one in Montreal and went to try to get her money back!
will definitely go back for the next one!
Let’s make a date!
Oh I love this place! I’ve only been once, after a trip to Château des Baux de Provence, and my son was 3 at the time. He wasn’t a fan of the bright lights and loud music so we didn’t stay long. Definitely keen to go again (maybe on my own so I can take my time), and this exhibition looks amazing! #allaboutfrance
I can imagine that 3 is too young, but do try and get there on your own this year Nadine, you’ll love it.
Wow just Wow. Simply stunning and such a fantastic idea. I absolutely love it and need to find out if they do anything like this up our way. #AllAboutFrance
You could go to the Paris version Rosie, nice day out.
I SO wanted to to do this when I was in Paris last week but couldn’t find the time. I went to the Klimt one last year and sobbed my way through it, it was so beautiful. All I can say is, you lucky, lucky thing! #CULTUREKIDS
Hopefully next year’s choice will be as inspiring and you’ll be able to get to that, either in Provence or Paris.
How amazing! I love all the creativity put into the exhibition! I would so love to visit, Van Gogh is a genius!
Too right!
What an incredible setting for the most incredible looking exhibition! I would love to go to this! Thanks so much for joining in with #CulturedKids
A little day trip to Paris perhaps Emma?
Isn’t it incredible …. it was my first visit this year and I loved every moment of it ….. happily I was there without the school children, but can imagine they were mesmerised by it too. I still have to take my other half as I think I have driven him up the wall talking about it – so it gives me a great excuse to go back 😉 #allaboutfrance
Fab excuse to go back with hubby. Do it!
This looks amazing – I hope that we get to take the kids as Van Gogh has long been a favourite artist of ours.
You’ve got till the end of the year, so I hope you can get to it.
I just love the exhibitions at the Carrières de Lumières! the Van Gogh one must be astonishing! We saw one on Medieval artworks a few years ago. Some of the images freaked the kids out a little: all those religious paintings of sacrifices, ones of battles were quite daunting seen in huge technicolour! These show are an experience not to be missed!
Gosh, I can imagine seeing gory scenes in such detail and on such a grand scale would be alarming for kids!
Wow, this is so amazing. It’s such an incredible setting to display the paintings.The photos look so amazing and I can imagine the experience of seeing it in real. I would so love to see this exhibition.
Thanks for commenting Usha, it really is an exceptional experience
Wow, just wow! So much creativity and effort went into this exhibition. I would SO love to visit. Van Gogh is one of my favorite artists. To sit “in” his work would just be mind blowing. Thanks for sharing all the photos!
You’d absolutely love it Sharon
I’m so jealous! I would love to see this exhibit. It looks incredible!
I feel very lucky I got to see it.
We saw an immersive Klimt exhibition in Paris. It was fabulous. Van Gogh in Provence looks amazing.
If it was at the Ateliers de lumière then it was also at the Carrières in Provence as there was a Klimt exhibition there too. I wish I’d seen it, I love Klimt.
Wonderful write up – I’m so pleased to read all about your visit. It took me right back to my visit in Paris. I imagine entering as you did was quite daunting. A brilliant show & a brilliant post.
Thanks Wren!
I would love to visit this! Other people I know who have been say it’s amazing. I went to Arles a few years ago but they had none of van Gogh’s paintings! Fascinating post.
It’s on till early next year Vanessa, maybe you’ll make it. I hope so.
Hi Phoebe: It’s nice to have you back in the “blogging world.” Your photos of Carrieres de Lumieres are stunning, I can hardly wait to see this year’s show. #AllAboutFrance
Thanks Carolyne, yup I’ve been back for a few months now, at last!
How absolutely incredible. The quarry is jaw dropping on its own but with the projections just stunning #FarawayFiles
You’re right Catherine, the quarry is amazing. It’s such a fabulous space to project onto.
This looks incredible. Poor VG, if only he could have known how popular his art would become. And thanks for the Paris tip, that might provide me with a extra reason to hop on the Eurostar!
Can you even imagine what he’d think of his paintings 10m high! Incredible. I hope you get to the Paris version.
I saw your photos on Facebook but reading all about the exhibition is fascinating. I would absolutely adore this!
Maybe you need to plan a trip to Paris of Provence Trish!
Wow and more wow! This looks absolutely amazing. Watching the videos and hearing the music really helped to experience the exhibition in some small way. I would really like to see this or, at the very least, something similar.
Can you get to Paris, if not Provence June? It’s so worth it.
We were thinking of going to Paris this week but, in the end, have opted for Vienna as we have never been there. But I like the look of the exhibition so much, it seems like a very good reason to try to get back to Paris as well!
Definitely! Hope you enjoyed Vienna
I just saw this in Paris at L’Atelier des Lumieres and it was stunning.
How wonderful! Did you write about it? Would you like to link something up to #AllAboutFrance?
Wow! It looks absolutely amazing! I hope I’ll be able to get there this summer. Thanks for a great article.
I hope you make it either to Provence or Paris.
I saw this show – or something very similar – here in Tel Aviv and it was breathtaking. I am so glad you got to experience it too. #FarawayFiles
How interesting, I didn’t know it had been to Israel.
Hey Phoebe, thanks for hosting #allaboutfrance!
So I must admit I’m not much of an art fanatic. But, that said, this is such a unique way to present the art and I’d love to see it in person! I think presentation counts for a lot and this type of exhibit would work for those of us who would rather skip a an art museum. It’s just gorgeous and a real show!
Yes it’s certainly a great way to see art if you’re not really into it. I think even the most uninterested person would still be a little impressed with this!
Oh my goodness, Phoebe, this sounds absolutely amazing! The thought of being immersed in all that art, with the music too. It’s a wonderful way to experience art and I’m a big fan of Van Gogh. Thanks for sharing on #farawayfiles
You’d absolutely love it Clare, maybe you’ll just have to go back to Paris later in the year to see it.
How amazing. No I have never seen anything like this. It would blow me away. Just looking at your blog is incredible. Thank you for sharing this.
Catherine you’d LOVE it.
Everything about this looks amazing! I studied art and I’d love to visit this installation. I imagine it was quite difficult to put into words how it made you feel. Thanks for sharing #CulturedKids
Wow – the photos are stunning, I can’t imagine just how superb the experience must be in person, thanks for sharing #AllAboutFrance
It is soooo much better in person, even the videos don’t convey the immensity and overwhelming power of the place, images and sound.