The Cap d’Antibes on the French Riviera, a name synonymous with luxury properties, phenomenal wealth and perfect manicured gardens is not often linked with untamed natural beauty. But a walk around its coastal path reveals a surprisingly wild landscape, often more reminiscent of Brittany than the Côte d’Azur. It’s a delicious walk, perfect really, taking in gorgeous views of the Mercantour National Park one way and the Estérel mountains the other while gently climbing up and down well maintained rocky paths next to the crystal clear sea. I can’t stress more how lovely this walk is.
This hike (though that word implies more effort than is required here in my mind) is just under 5 kms long and takes about two hours without extended picnic stops. Start at the car park behind the plage de la Garoupe and take the path that runs along the right side of the beach along a stone wall. From here on for as far as you can go along the coastal path the route is obvious and doesn’t need to be marked as there’s no choice. A note of warning however, do not take the path in bad weather/high seas/strong winds as it can be dangerous. This is a fair weather walk and none more fair than the day we did it during the Toussaint holidays in early November.
We stopped for a picnic early on, almost immediately in fact, owing to the time of day. This turned out quite fortuitous as further on along the path there are fewer places to make a camp and at times there is no room at all to leave the narrow track. We ate our lunch on a wide open point with a magnificent view over the eastern side of the Côte d’Azur and across to the Alps behind. Despite it being November we were all dressed lightly in t-shirts and the children even swam at the end of the walk! Our group consisted of three generations from seven years old to over eighty and everyone coped well with the length and level of difficulty of this walk. I must admit though that the eighty-three year old with us was fit and determined and I doubt many of her age would be able to manage it.
The trail follows the old customs path right along the water’s edge, winding up and down along steep white lime cliffs and past narrow rocky coves. It’s well maintained, even cobbled at times, with hand rails to hold onto in the more precarious parts. Looking down to the left the water is beautifully clear, deep blue and sparkling, and looking up to the right you catch glimpses of private gardens behind high stone walls. Every now and then there’s a gate into one of the luxurious gardens through which you can see ancient olive trees, Aleppo pines, enormous agaves and exotic cacti. Did you know that the agave flowers only once and then dies? (Well now you do!) The jagged white rocks are covered in succulents, such as the “Witches Finger” which seem to grow out of nothing. You wonder how they could possibly survive but apparently they thrive on the salty spray and warm sun.
After a while the path levels out onto an open flatish area of rough low rocks with a newly renovated wall on the right. You get the feeling someone really big lives here judging from the amount of security cameras and you’d be right. The Château de la Croë, once home to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and known locally as The White House, is now in the hands of Russian squillionaire Roman Abramovich, owner of Chelsea FC. You’ll notice an ugly round concrete block at the end of a path heading out towards the sea. This is all that remains of a failed attempt by Abramovich to build a pontoon to moor his yachts at. In a true David and Goliath story a local sea urchin fisherman pulled the plug on these illegal plans as no one, not even Roman, has the right to build up to the water’s edge. The irony of this is that now that all the curious walkers can spy into his property as the concrete block serves as a viewing platform without which his house would have stayed truly private.
This is the end of the coastal section of the walk as the path turns inland between two high walls separating two enormous properties: the Villa Eilen Roc on the left and le Croë on the right. I couldn’t help thinking as I walked along here that the budget for Roman’s security alone, and perhaps just along this section of his boundary, was undoubtedly more than my own house, Lou Messugo, is worth. The wealth in this part of the Riviera is astounding and at times overwhelmingly vulgar but it only goes to highlight one of the reasons why this walk is so lovely; the contrast is so unexpected. The Cap is wild and untouched, almost fierce in its beauty, yet it’s bang in the middle of one of the most heavily developed parts of the French Mediterranean coast.
The last part of the walk is along the street. Take Avenue de Beaumont until you get to the main road and then immediately turn right into Avenue de la Tour Gandolphe. This street is full of surprisingly modest old houses with small holdings. I’m sure the property developers would love to get their hands on some of this land but it’s certainly refreshing to see that some ordinary folk still live here. I wonder for how much longer? At the end of this lovely street you’ll find yourself back at the car park where you started.
Do you have a favourite walk? Do tell!